Pull up a stool. If you grew up going to a barbershop, you probably remember the end of a shave: the barber shakes something out of a bottle into his palms, claps them together and pats it on your neck, and for about three seconds your whole face is on fire. Then it calms down, and you smell like a barbershop for the rest of the afternoon. That’s the classic splash. These days a lot of guys ask a different question at the counter — is there an alcohol-free aftershave that does the job without the burn? There is, and for plenty of faces it’s the better call.
Let’s talk about where the splash came from, what aftershave actually does, and then go skin type by skin type so you can buy the right thing instead of the loudest thing on the shelf. No brand names here — just the types, what’s in them in general terms, and how to use them.
A little history of the barbershop splash
For a long stretch of the last century, a straight-razor shave at the barbershop was a routine thing for a lot of men, not a special occasion. When the razor was done, the barber needed something to finish the skin — to rinse away leftover lather, give a clean, tight feeling, and leave a pleasant scent. The answer was usually an alcohol-based tonic or splash, because alcohol evaporates fast, feels cooling, and carries fragrance well.
The most famous of these is bay rum. Traditionally, bay rum was made by steeping the leaves of the bay rum tree in rum, a recipe associated with the Caribbean. It has a warm, spicy, slightly clove-like smell that a lot of people still connect with the inside of an old barbershop. Today the name usually refers to that style of scent in an aftershave splash, not to anything you’d want to drink.
The sting was part of the experience, and some men still love it. But sting is just alcohol meeting freshly shaved skin, and for many guys — especially anyone with dry or sensitive skin, or anyone who gets bumps — that’s not a feature. That’s where the newer alcohol-free formulas come in.
What does aftershave do?
Here’s the honest version. Aftershave is a finishing product for skin you just scraped with a blade. Depending on the formula, it can:
- Soothe and cool skin that feels hot or tight after shaving.
- Moisturize, if it’s a balm or lotion made to hydrate.
- Leave a light scent, if it’s fragranced.
- Feel clean and tight, which is mostly the alcohol in a classic splash evaporating.
What it doesn’t do is fix a bad shave. If you’re dragging a dull blade across dry skin, no bottle on earth will save your neck. Get the shave right first — a good lather and light pressure make the biggest difference, and our shaving cream vs. gel guide covers that end of things.
Splash, balm, gel or lotion: the four types on the shelf
Splash
Thin and watery, usually alcohol-based, often strongly scented. Bay rum is the classic example. Feels like: a cool sting, then a quick dry-down. Best for: oily skin, guys who like a tight, clean finish and a noticeable scent. Skip it if: your skin is dry, sensitive or prone to irritation.
Balm
Thicker and creamier, built to moisturize. Most balms are alcohol-free or low in alcohol. Feels like: a light moisturizer with a soft finish. Best for: dry skin, sensitive skin, winter in Western New York when the heat’s been running for months. Skip it if: you have very oily skin and hate anything that sits on the surface.
Gel
Clear or tinted, lightweight, often cooling. Many are alcohol-free. Feels like: cool and light, absorbs quickly. Best for: normal or combination skin, guys who want soothing without a heavy feel.
Lotion
Somewhere between a splash and a balm. Some contain alcohol, some don’t — read the label. Best for: normal skin, or anyone who wants a little moisture without a thick balm.
Alcohol vs. alcohol-free aftershave
Here’s where the counter talk gets frank. The alcohol in a classic splash is usually a fast-evaporating type that gives that sting and quick dry feeling. On skin that’s already a little raw from a razor, it can feel drying, and for some people it’s irritating.
An alcohol-free aftershave skips that ingredient and leans on soothing and moisturizing ingredients instead. Without the sting, it’s usually gentler on freshly shaved skin, which is why it’s a sensible default for dry or sensitive skin.
One label note: not every "alcohol" on an ingredient list is the drying kind. Some ingredients with "alcohol" in the name — the so-called fatty alcohols — are thick, waxy ingredients used to soften and condition. So "alcohol-free" on the front of the bottle is the claim to look for, rather than trying to decode every line of the back.
Is alcohol-free always better? No. Some guys with oily skin like the clean, tight feel of a splash, and that’s a fair preference. If it doesn’t irritate you, there’s no rule that says you have to give it up.
Aftershave vs. cologne
People mix these up all the time, and "aftershave cologne" is a common search for a reason. Here’s the difference in plain terms:
- Cologne is made to be a fragrance. It goes on your neck, chest or wrists, and its job is to smell good for a while.
- Aftershave is made to care for skin after shaving. Many aftershaves are scented, but the scent is usually lighter and fades sooner.
Some products blur the line, and a scented splash can do double duty for a guy who doesn’t want a separate fragrance. But don’t splash cologne on freshly shaved skin and call it aftershave — fragrance-heavy products can sting and irritate. If you wear cologne, put it on skin you didn’t just shave, and keep the aftershave light or unscented so the two aren’t fighting.
The buyer’s guide, skin type by skin type
Everybody asks what the best aftershave is. The best guys aftershave is the one that suits the face it’s going on. So here’s how to sort it.
Dry skin
Go for an alcohol-free balm or a moisturizing lotion. Look for general categories like glycerin, aloe, plant oils, shea-type butters and other moisturizers on the label. Skip the classic splash, or save it for the rare occasion you just want the smell.
Oily skin
A light gel or a splash is fine. A thick balm may feel heavy. If you like the bay rum aftershave tradition, this is the skin type most likely to tolerate it.
Sensitive skin
Alcohol-free, and ideally fragrance-free. Fragrance is one of the more common causes of skin reactions to cosmetics; the FDA’s overview of allergens in cosmetics explains fragrance allergies and why labels matter. Try a new product on a small patch of skin first, and stop using anything that causes redness, itching or a rash.
Normal or combination skin
You’ve got the most options. A light gel or lotion is an easy middle ground. Try a couple of types and see what you like the feel of.
Ingrown hairs and razor bumps
This is the one that brings the most questions to the chair. Let’s be straight: no aftershave is a cure, and the best aftershave for ingrown hairs is a gentle one paired with better shaving habits. Ingrown hairs happen when a shaved hair curls back or grows sideways into the skin, which is more common with tightly curled hair; the Mayo Clinic has a clear explainer on ingrown hair.
In general terms, look for an alcohol-free, fragrance-free product, and some formulas include gentle exfoliating ingredients such as salicylic acid. But the habits matter more than the bottle. The American Academy of Dermatology’s razor bump prevention tips cover the basics: shave with the grain, don’t stretch the skin, use a sharp blade and rinse it often. And if bumps are painful, infected-looking, or not getting better, see a dermatologist. We’re barbers, not doctors.
Some guys with constant bumps find it easier to stop shaving close altogether and keep a short trim instead, or to keep the shaved area small — say, just the upper lip on a beard with no mustache.
How to apply aftershave the right way
- Rinse with cool or lukewarm water to clear leftover lather.
- Pat dry with a clean towel. Don’t rub.
- Use a small amount. A few drops of splash, or a dime-sized amount of balm or gel. More isn’t better.
- Warm it between your palms and press or pat it onto the shaved area. Don’t scrub it in.
- Give it a minute before you put on a collar or cologne.
If you’re using a separate moisturizer, a balm often covers that job. If you’re using a splash, follow with a moisturizer if your skin feels tight. For a broader at-home routine, see our barber hair care tips.
Getting the full treatment in the chair
If you’d rather let someone else do the work, the Hot Towel Shave at our Williamsville shop includes pre-shave oil, hot lather, hot towels and aftercare. It starts at $25 and takes about 30 minutes. For the step-by-step, read What Is a Hot Towel Shave? If you’re not sure what your skin likes, ask your barber which type of aftercare suits it.
And since you’re already thinking about the details: brow, ear and nose waxing is available at the Williamsville shop only, by appointment — more on that in our Williamsville waxing guide. The full menu is on our services page, and you can meet the team on the barbers page.
Coming from Buffalo Niagara Heritage Village
Buffalo Niagara Heritage Village is a living-history museum at 3755 Tonawanda Creek Rd. in Amherst. If you’ve spent the afternoon there, here’s the drive to the shop.
- Exit the parking lot toward New Rd.
- Turn right onto New Rd and go 3.3 miles.
- Continue onto Dodge Rd for 0.8 miles.
- Turn left onto Casey Rd for 0.7 miles.
- Turn right onto Youngs Rd for 3.9 miles.
- Turn right onto Main St, about 400 feet.
- Turn into 6100 Main St — the shop is on the left.
It’s about 20 minutes and 8.9 miles via New Rd and Youngs Rd. Open these directions in Google Maps
Visit our Williamsville shop
The Williamsville shop is at 6100 Main St., Williamsville, NY 14221, serving Williamsville, Amherst and Snyder. Hours are Tuesday through Friday 9AM to 6PM and Saturday 8AM to 12PM, closed Sunday and Monday. Our Tonawanda shop is listed on the locations page.
Book online — you’ll see each barber’s exact rate before you confirm — or call 716-389-0192. Walk-ins are welcome when there is an open chair — appointments are encouraged, so call 716-389-0192 to confirm someone is free.
Last word from the counter: the splash is a fine tradition, and if your skin likes it, enjoy it. If it doesn’t, an alcohol-free aftershave is not a lesser product. It’s just the right one for your face.
