Jonny the Barber — Fine Men's Grooming Book

The
Blog

Straight answers and honest advice from Jonny and the crew at Williamsville and Tonawanda. What works, what doesn’t, and what to do about it.

Jonny — Jon Palmeri, owner of Jonny the Barber
JonnyOwner · Master Barber · Est. 2012
A man shaving lathered skin in front of a mirror
Jonny·

Straight Razor vs. Safety Razor: An Honest Comparison from the Barber's Chair

A straight razor gives the closest shave and takes real skill. A safety razor gives a very close shave and takes a week to learn. Here is the honest…

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Portrait of a man with short, textured hair
Jonny·

How to Style Short Hair (Men): The Product Lineup, and a Method for Each

Clay, paste, pomade, cream, wax, sea salt spray. Each one does a different job. Here is the lineup, who each suits, how much to use, and a quick…

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A smiling man with round glasses and a short beard
Jonny·

The Best Haircuts for a Round Face (Men): Add Height, Add Angles

A round face looks longer and more defined with height on top, tight sides and a few hard angles. Here is the geometry, the cuts that use it, and the…

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A smiling man with a full, thick beard resting his hands on his cheeks
Jonny·

Beard Oil vs. Beard Balm: Which One Your Beard Actually Needs

Oil is for the skin. Balm is for the shape. That is most of the answer — but beard length, the weather and how much hold you want all change which…

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A man trimming the beard line on his neck in a mirror
Jonny·

Where Should Your Beard Neckline Be? How to Line Up a Beard Properly

Two fingers above the Adam's apple, curving up behind the ears. Measure it, mark it, trim below it. The beard neckline, done properly, is the…

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A bright modern salon with black chairs, round mirrors and a brick wall
Jonny·

Barber vs. Stylist: What’s Actually Different, and Which One You Need

Barbers and stylists both cut hair. They are trained differently, licensed differently and good at different things. Here is how to tell which one…

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A man with a full, neatly kept beard looking at the camera outdoors
Jonny·

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Beard? A Week-by-Week Timeline from a Tonawanda Barber

Most guys quit their beard in week three, right before it gets good. Here is what to expect week by week, when to leave it alone, and when to let a…

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A young man with medium-length hair pushed back
Jonny·

How to Grow Out Your Hair (Men): A Month-by-Month Roadmap

Growing your hair out is mostly patience — plus a few well-timed trims. Here is the roadmap, month by month, including how to survive the awkward…

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A barber’s hand cleaning up the neckline at the back of a young boy’s fresh haircut with clippers
Jonny·

How Often Should Kids Get Haircuts? A Straight Answer

The internet says six weeks. The internet says that about everyone, which is why it is not useful. Here is the schedule by cut and by hair type, and…

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Close-up of a barber's hands cutting a client's hair
Jonny·

Scissor Cut vs. Clipper Cut: What's the Difference, and Which Is Right for You?

Clippers are fast, precise and great for short sides. Scissors are soft, natural and great for length. Most great haircuts use both. Here is how to…

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A young man with swept, textured hair against a dark background
Jonny·

Haircuts for a Big Forehead or Long Face (Men): What Actually Helps

A bigger forehead or a longer face is just proportion, and a haircut is the easiest way to change proportion. Here is what to bring forward, what to…

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A barber’s hands blending the faded side of a boy’s haircut with clippers, seen from over the shoulder
Jonny·

The Kids’ Fade, Explained: What You’re Actually Asking For

“He wants a fade” covers about six different haircuts, and half the time the parent and the kid mean different ones. Here is what the…

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A man rubbing his short beard with one hand
Jonny·

Beard Itch: Why It Happens and How to Make It Stop

Almost every beard itches at some point. Usually it is new growth or dry skin, and it is easy to fix. Here is how to work out which it is, what to…

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A leather barber chair in soft focus inside a barbershop
Jonny·

How Long Does a Haircut Take? Every Service, Timed

About thirty minutes for a proper men's haircut. Here is where those thirty minutes go, minute by minute, plus how long every other service takes and…

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A barber cutting a client's thick gray hair with scissors
Jonny·

Haircuts for Thick Hair (Men): Problems, Fixes and the Cuts That Work

Thick hair is a gift that behaves like a problem: it puffs, it stands up, it turns into a helmet by week three. Here are the problems, the fixes and…

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A barber carefully working close to a client's hairline in a barbershop
Jonny·

Brow, Ear and Nose Waxing in Williamsville: The Frank Guide for Men

Nobody wants to talk about ear hair. We will. A frank, slightly embarrassing, entirely practical guide to brow, ear and nose waxing at our…

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A young man in glasses with short, blunt bangs and faded sides
Jonny·

The French Crop: An Old Cut That Keeps Coming Back

Short sides, a short textured top, everything pushed forward to a neat line of bangs. The French crop has been around for decades and is still one of…

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A tattooed barber shaping the side of a client's haircut
Jonny·

Fade vs. Taper: What Each One Is, and a Simple Way to Choose

A taper gets shorter toward the neck and stops before skin. A fade keeps going. That is the difference — and below is a quick decision path for…

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A barber trimming the beard line of a reclining client with a clipper
Jonny·

What Is an Edge Up Haircut? Edge Up vs. Shape Up vs. Line Up, Explained

Edge up, shape up, line up, lineup — four names, roughly one service. Here is what it actually is, what it is not, and when it is worth ten minutes…

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A smiling man with a thick mustache, close up
Jonny·

How to Grow a Mustache: A Week-by-Week Logbook

Day one is easy. Week two is where most mustaches get shaved off. Here is the whole log, week by week, with what to do at each stage so yours makes…

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A man with shoulder-length curly hair and a short beard
Jonny·

Haircuts for Curly Hair (Men): A Barber's Guide by Curl Type

Curly hair is not a problem to be managed. Cut properly, it is the easiest hair to wear. Here is what works for wavy, curly and coily hair, and how a…

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A boy with a fresh sharp haircut and a backpack over one shoulder, lit against the dark of the barbershop
Jonny·

Nine Boys’ Haircuts That Survive a School Morning

The question is not which cut looks best in a photo. It is which one still looks fine on a Tuesday when nobody has touched it. Nine cuts we actually…

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A man checking his haircut in a mirror propped outdoors
Jonny·

How to Fix a Bad Haircut: A Calm, Step-by-Step Triage from the Barber's Chair

Step away from the bathroom clippers. A bad haircut is almost always fixable — or at least survivable — if you do the right things in the right…

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A curly-haired man twisting the ends of his mustache
Jonny·

How to Trim a Mustache: A Step-by-Step Manual from a Barber

Comb it down, trim the lip line first, never cut it wet, and take less than you think. The full step-by-step, plus the mistakes that ruin a mustache…

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A barber shaving a reclining man's beard with a straight razor
Jonny·

What Is a Hot Towel Shave? Every Step, from the First Towel to the Last

Thirty minutes, lying back, with hot towels and a sharp razor. Here is what happens at each step of a hot towel shave, and why it feels nothing like…

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A young man in a leather jacket pushing his hair up and back
Jonny·

The Quiff Haircut: The Cut, the Morning Routine, and How to Make It Last

A quiff is all about the front: height, volume, swept up and back. Here is the cut that makes it possible, the five-minute morning routine, and how…

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A dark, moody barbershop interior with a tufted leather chair and mirrors
Jonny·

A Barber Shop for North Tonawanda, Just Across the Canal

Picture a Tuesday morning. You cross the canal, you are in a chair by 7, and you are back on your side of the water before your coffee goes cold…

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A man with a short, full beard wearing a denim jacket
Jonny·

Beard Trim Styles: 10 Looks, Who They Suit, and How to Ask for Them

Ten beard styles, each with the same four answers: what it is, who it suits, how much upkeep it needs, and the exact words to use in the barber's…

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A man with a short buzz cut in profile, with a blurred reflection behind him
Jonny·

The Best Haircuts for a Receding Hairline (From Barbers Who See It Every Day)

A receding hairline is one of the most common things a barber sees, and one of the easiest to work with once you stop fighting it. Here are the cuts…

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A young boy sitting up straight and proud in a vintage leather barber chair, a barber’s hand resting on the chair back
Jonny·

Barbershop or Kids’ Salon? An Honest Comparison

There are three reasonable places to take a child for a haircut, and they suit different children. Here is a fair comparison — including the cases…

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A man with a short textured haircut and a neat beard looking off to the side
Jonny·

9 Low-Maintenance Haircuts for Men That Still Look Good in Week Four

A low-maintenance haircut is not the one that takes least time in the morning. It is the one that still looks deliberate four weeks after you got it…

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Hair clippers and combs standing in a holder at a barber's station
Jonny·

Haircut Numbers Explained: A Clipper Guard Size Chart You Can Actually Use

A number 2 leaves about a quarter inch. A number 4 leaves half an inch. Here is the full chart, what each number looks like on a real head, and how…

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A barber’s hand holding out cordless clippers for a young boy in the barber chair to look at and touch
Jonny·

When Your Kid Is Scared of Haircuts: What Actually Helps

You have already tried the tablet and the lollipop. Here are the six triggers that actually cause haircut fear, how to defuse them at home over a…

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A man with a short crew cut and a neat beard
Jonny·

Crew Cut vs. Buzz Cut: The Tale of the Tape

Two of the shortest, simplest cuts in the shop, weighed in side by side. Length, styling, upkeep, who they suit, and a clear verdict for every kind…

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A long brick-walled barbershop with a row of vintage barber chairs
Jonny·

Looking for a Kenmore Barber Shop? Here’s the Case for Driving a Few Minutes North

You live in Kenmore, you want a good barber, and you would rather not spend Saturday morning in a waiting room. Here is how our Tonawanda shop fits…

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Close-up profile of a man with a short, dark beard
Jonny·

The Beard Fade: How a Haircut and a Beard Become One Shape

A beard fade blends your haircut into your beard so there is no hard line where one ends and the other begins. Here is how it works, zone by zone…

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A barber cutting a seated client's hair in a small street-front shop
Jonny·

How Much to Tip a Barber: The Real Numbers, Worked Out for You

Fifteen to twenty percent is the range you will hear everywhere. Here is what that actually comes to on a $25 cut, a $12 edge up and a house call…

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A barber cleaning up the neckline of a client with a towel around his shoulders
Jonny·

The Mid Taper: Where It Starts, What It Pairs With, How to Ask

A mid taper starts the shortening roughly at the temples and finishes clean at the neck. It is the most versatile taper there is. Here is exactly…

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A vintage leather barber chair in a shop lined with framed pictures
Jonny·

Choosing a Barber Shop in Williamsville, NY: A 10-Point Scorecard

Ten things to check before you trust anyone with your head. Use it on us, use it on anyone. Then see how our Main Street shop scores.

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An older barber in a white coat cutting a client's hair in a vintage shop
Jonny·

Barbershop Etiquette: 15 Unwritten Rules (and What to Say to Your Barber)

Nobody hands you the rulebook the first time you walk into a barbershop. Here it is: fifteen unwritten rules, and the handful of sentences that get…

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A man leaning back in a leather barber chair under warm shop lights
Jonny·

Barber Shop in Tonawanda, NY: What You Actually Get on Delaware Street

No mood boards and no mystery pricing. Here is exactly what happens when you walk into our Tonawanda shop at 578 Delaware St. — who cuts, what it…

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Profile of a man with very short faded sides and a short beard
Jonny·

The High and Tight Haircut: What It Is, Who It Suits, How to Ask

Sides taken short and high. A short strip on top. No styling. The high and tight is the most no-nonsense haircut there is. Here is how it works and…

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A dark, empty barbershop with a row of barber chairs and mirrors
Jonny·

How Often Should You Get a Haircut? A Schedule for Every Cut

The short answer is every three to six weeks. The useful answer depends on how short you keep the sides. Here is a schedule for every cut, and how to…

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A barber’s cordless clippers held just above a young boy’s ear mid-fade, background softly blurred
Jonny·

Where to Take Your Kid for a Haircut in Tonawanda (and What to Expect)

Chain, salon, or barbershop — the right pick depends on your kid, not the price. Here is an honest account of what a kids' cut at our Tonawanda shop…

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A barber’s hands cradling a baby’s head with scissors poised for a first snip, a parent’s arm just visible at the edge of frame
Jonny·

Your Baby’s First Haircut: When to Go, What to Ask For, and What Nobody Tells You

The first haircut is the one everyone photographs and worries about most — usually about the wrong things. Here is what actually matters: when to go…

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A barber gently combing the hair of a young boy sitting calmly in the barber chair
Jonny·

Sensory-Friendly Haircuts for Autistic Kids in Western New York

It is usually not the haircut itself that is the problem — it is the buzzing, the lights, the cape, and all of it at once. Here is exactly what we do…

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Over the barber’s shoulder: a laughing boy in a barber cape getting a scissor-over-comb trim
Jonny·

Kids’ Haircuts in Williamsville: A Parent’s Guide to Getting It Right

Somewhere between the door and the chair, the whole thing can go sideways. Here is what actually happens when you bring a child in, and how to make…

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Ready when
you are

Walk-ins are welcome, but booking is the sure thing — and if your kid needs a quieter visit, just say so when you book.