Short hair should be the easiest hair in the world to style. Usually it is — once you know which product does what. Most styling frustration comes from using the wrong one: a shiny pomade on a hairstyle meant to look messy, or a light cream on thick hair that needs grip.
So here is the lineup. Six products, what each one does, who it suits, how much to use, and a sixty-second method for each.
Before any product: the base
- Start with a good cut. No product fixes a cut that is the wrong shape. Short hair styles best when the cut has texture in it.
- Towel-dry to damp, not wet. Most products work best on damp or dry hair, not soaking hair.
- Use less than you think. The number one styling mistake is too much product. Start with a pea-sized amount.
- Warm it between your palms before it goes in your hair, so it spreads evenly.
- Work from back to front, so the front — the part everyone sees — does not get the biggest blob.
1. Clay
What it does: strong hold, matte finish, adds thickness and texture.
Best for: thick or fine hair that needs grip; textured crops, messy styles, quiffs.
How much: a pea-sized amount for short hair.
Method: on dry or nearly dry hair, warm it in your palms until it softens, rub it through the top from the roots up, then pinch and twist sections with your fingertips for texture. Push the front up or forward. Done.
2. Paste
What it does: medium hold, low-to-medium shine, more flexible than clay.
Best for: most short hair types; crew cuts, side parts, short textured tops.
How much: a pea-sized amount.
Method: on damp or dry hair, warm it, work it through, comb or finger it into place. Re-workable during the day with your fingers.
3. Pomade
What it does: medium-to-strong hold with shine. Classic, slick finish.
Best for: side parts, slick-backs and pompadours. Works best on medium to thick hair.
How much: a little more than a pea for a pompadour; less for a side part.
Method: on damp hair, warm it, work it through, then comb into shape. Water-based pomades wash out easily; oil-based ones hold longer but are harder to wash out.
Watch for: shine shows scalp, so it is not the best choice for thinning hair. Our receding hairline guide explains why matte usually works better there.
4. Cream
What it does: light hold, natural finish, adds softness and control.
Best for: wavy and curly hair, slightly longer short cuts, anyone who wants hair to look like they did nothing.
How much: a dime-sized amount.
Method: on damp hair, rub it through, scrunch curls or waves, and let it air-dry without touching it. Our curly hair guide goes deeper on creams.
5. Wax
What it does: firm, pliable hold, usually with a slight shine. Good for definition.
Best for: short, spiky or piece-y styles; taming flyaways.
How much: very little. Wax builds up fast.
Method: on dry hair, warm a tiny amount until soft, then work it into the ends to define pieces. Avoid the roots, where it makes hair look greasy.
6. Sea salt spray
What it does: light hold, matte, beachy texture and volume.
Best for: fine or flat hair that needs body; messy, relaxed styles.
How much: four to six sprays.
Method: spray into damp hair, then either blow-dry with your fingers for volume or let it air-dry. Can be used as a base under a little clay for extra hold.
Which product for which cut?
- Buzz cut: nothing. Seriously.
- Crew cut: a little paste or clay, pushed forward or up.
- Textured crop: clay, pinched for texture.
- Side part: paste for a natural look, pomade for a polished one.
- Quiff or short pompadour: clay or pomade, with a blow-dry for height.
- Short curly top: cream.
- Fine, flat hair: sea salt spray plus a touch of clay.
Our post on nine low-maintenance haircuts covers how much styling each cut needs.
The hairdryer trick
A hairdryer is the most underrated styling tool for short hair. Thirty seconds on medium heat, pointing the air in the direction you want the hair to go, sets the shape before any product goes in. It is the difference between a quiff that collapses by ten in the morning and one that lasts all day.
By hair type
- Thick hair: clay or paste, worked in at the roots. Our thick hair guide has more.
- Fine hair: sea salt spray or a light clay. Avoid heavy pomades.
- Wavy hair: cream or a light paste.
- Curly hair: cream, applied wet.
- Coarse or gray hair: paste or cream to soften and control.
A sixty-second morning routine
- 0–10 seconds: towel-dry until damp.
- 10–30 seconds: blow-dry in the direction you want the hair to go, focusing on the front.
- 30–45 seconds: warm a pea-sized amount of product and work it in, back to front, roots first.
- 45–60 seconds: shape with fingers or a comb, then stop touching it.
If it takes much longer than that every day, it is worth asking your barber whether a different cut would suit your hair better.
Washing product out
Most water-based products wash out with a normal shampoo. Heavier, oil-based pomades and waxes can take two washes, or a little shampoo worked into dry hair before you rinse. Do not skip it: product build-up makes hair look limp and dull, and it is hard on the scalp.
Styling between haircuts
As short hair grows, the same product may stop working. In week one, a little clay gives perfect texture; by week four, the top may need more hold, or a different direction entirely. That is usually the sign you are due a cut. Our guide on how often to get a haircut has a schedule by style.
Common mistakes
- Too much product. Greasy, flat, heavy. Start small.
- Product only on the surface. It needs to reach the roots to hold.
- Styling soaking-wet hair with clay or wax. It will not grip.
- Never washing it out properly. Build-up makes hair look dull and limp.
- Fighting your cut. If you spend five minutes every morning forcing it into shape, the cut is wrong, not the product. Talk to your barber.
Product by occasion
- Office: paste or a light pomade for a neat, controlled look.
- Weekend: clay or sea salt spray for relaxed texture.
- Gym or sport: nothing, or a very light cream. Sweat and heavy products do not mix.
- Wedding or event: a blow-dry and pomade or clay, set properly in the morning. Get the cut two or three days before.
- Windy or rainy days: clay holds up better than pomade in Buffalo weather.
If products bother your skin
Hair products sit right at the hairline and forehead. If you get irritation or breakouts there, switch to a fragrance-free product and patch-test first. The FDA has a useful page on allergens in cosmetics.
Product myths
- “Expensive product is always better.” Not necessarily. The right type of product matters far more than the price.
- “Gel causes hair loss.” There is no good evidence that styling products cause hair loss. Heavy, unwashed build-up is not good for your scalp, though, so wash it out.
- “More hold means a better style.” Too much hold makes short hair look stiff. Most short styles look best with medium hold and some movement.
- “You need a different product every day.” Most people need one product they like and the right amount of it.
Tools worth owning
- A hairdryer with a cool setting.
- A fine-tooth comb for side parts and pompadours.
- A wide-tooth comb for wavy or curly hair.
- A small brush, if you wear your hair slicked back.
That is genuinely all most people need. Anything more is a hobby.
Ask your barber
The simplest way to find your product: at the end of your cut, ask your barber to style it and tell you what they used and how. Watch what they do. Then copy it at home.
At our Williamsville shop
A Classic at our shops — clippers, scissors, edger and straight razor — starts at $25 and takes about thirty minutes. The cut is cut to be styled the way you actually wear it, so tell your barber how much time you spend on it in the morning. Jon Palmeri, Dave Scolla, Michael Falzone and Bryan Castronova will tell you honestly what to use.
The shop is at 6100 Main St., Williamsville, open Tuesday through Friday 9AM to 6PM and Saturday 8AM to noon. Book online or call 716-389-0192. New to the shop? Start with our Williamsville barber shop guide.
